THE YELLOW KING

Peter DaSilva for The New York Times

Robert Simonson for New York Times

This simple and breathtakingly beautiful aperitif drink (it is golden in hue) is an acquired taste. The floral and fruity Cocchi Americano, an aperitif wine, balances out the bitter bite of the Aveze, but not too much. Once you get used to the herb garden of flavors, the drink serves admirably as a palate cleanser and appetite whetter, all in an appealingly low-alcohol package. After two or three, you may even think it delicious. (I thought so after only one.) Think of it as a distant, sunny cousin of the Negroni.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 ½ ounces Aveze (gentian liqueur)

• ¾ ounce Cocchi Americano

• ¾ ounce dry vermouth, preferably Dolin

• Sprig of thyme

• Adapted from Matt Grippo,

• The Blackbird, San Francisco